GrowPls
← Plant questions

orchid, basil, croton · Asked on Instagram · 5 November 2026

Can these orchid, basil, and croton plants be saved?

Yes, the orchid and croton are probably salvageable, but the herb in the black pot looks too dried out to recover. Check each plant’s stems and roots for green, firm tissue, trim off dead parts, repot if needed, and adjust light and watering so they can regrow.

The question

“Are these plants salvageable? 🌱 😫😭”

What's likely going on

From the photos, there seem to be three different issues:

  1. Orchid (photo 1 – Phalaenopsis type)
    The flowers at the top are finished and shriveling, which is normal after blooming. The leaves look green and firm, so the plant itself is probably fine. It may also be a bit dry from bright window light and low humidity.

  2. Herb in black pot (photo 2 – looks like basil or similar)
    Almost all leaves are crisp, brown, and hanging. That usually means severe underwatering or heat stress that has gone on too long. If the stems are also dry and brittle all the way to the soil, this one is likely not salvageable.

  3. Croton (photo 3 – colorful variegated leaves)
    The leaves are wilted and some are browning, but many are still colored and flexible. That points to watering problems (often underwatering) or sudden change in light/temperature. Crotons sulk and droop easily but can bounce back if roots are still alive.


What to do

  1. Check for life on each plant
    Gently scratch a stem with your fingernail:

    • Green and moist inside = still alive.
    • Brown, dry, hollow = dead.
      Do this from the tips downward. Cut back each stem to the lowest point that is still green. If everything is dry to the soil, that plant is gone.
  2. For the orchid

    1. Cut the flower spike back to just above the lowest plump node, or remove it at the base if it’s mostly brown.
    2. Slide the inner pot out and check roots: keep it if roots are firm and green/silvery; trim mushy brown ones.
    3. Water by soaking the bark mix, then let it drain completely. Going forward, water when roots look silvery and the pot feels light.
  3. For the herb in the black pot
    After the scratch test, if stems are brown and break easily, compost it and reuse the pot. If you do find a few green stems at the base, cut everything dead off, water thoroughly once, then keep the soil slightly moist (not soggy) and give it bright light. But be prepared that it may not recover.

  4. For the croton

    1. Take the plastic grow pot out of the basket so excess water can drain. Make sure there are drainage holes.
    2. Water slowly until some water drains out; empty any saucer/basket bottom.
    3. After a few hours, if leaves are still limp, check the soil: if it’s bone dry, keep it evenly moist (not waterlogged) for the next week; if it’s wet and heavy, let it dry out part‑way before watering again.
    4. Place in a bright spot with indirect light (near a window, but not burning midday sun). Avoid cold drafts from AC or open doors.
  5. General TLC
    Remove all fully brown, crispy leaves so the plants can focus on healthy parts. Don’t fertilize until you see new growth.


How to prevent it

  1. Learn each plant’s watering signal

    • Orchid: pot feels very light and roots look silvery.
    • Herbs: top 2–3 cm of soil dry, but not the whole pot dust‑dry.
    • Croton: top few cm dry, but soil still slightly cool/damp deeper down.
  2. Give the right light

    • Orchid: bright, indirect light (east or bright north window; filtered south/west).
    • Herbs: several hours of direct morning sun or very bright window.
    • Croton: bright, indirect light; a little gentle morning sun is okay.
  3. Use pots with drainage and remove decorative covers or baskets when watering so excess water can escape.

  4. Avoid sudden changes in location, temperature, or light, especially for crotons, which drop and droop leaves easily when moved.


When to worry

  • If stems and roots on any plant are completely brown, hollow, or mushy, that plant is past saving.
  • If the croton keeps losing leaves for more than 2–3 weeks after correcting watering and light, check roots for rot (black, foul‑smelling) and repot into fresh, well‑draining soil.
  • If the orchid’s leaves start to wrinkle, yellow heavily, or roots turn brown and soft, adjust watering and consider repotting.

If at least some tissue is still green and firm, there’s a good chance the orchid and croton will recover with steady care, even if the herb doesn’t make it this time.

Answered by the GrowPls assistant. Every plant and room is different; if things don't improve, a clear close-up photo of the affected part is the fastest way to a better answer.

Related questions